Donald E. McNamara 
Editor’s note: Watches & Wonders (formerly SIHH) has gone live and Baselworld 2020 is cancelled, but that hasn’t stopped watch brands big and small from launching their new wares. Stay on top of this year’s best new watch releases here.
In perhaps the mother of all collaborations, two brands that represent the world of high-end independent watchmaking have teamed up to celebrate their respective 15 years: MB&F and H. Moser & Cie. have each released a watch that incorporates recognizable design elements as well as techniques from the other, and the resulting watches feel as natural and cohesive as if they came from a single brand.
These are of course brands with very avant-garde accents. What ties each of the new watches together are mechanical elements dramatically exposed above a “smoky” dial execution. The first is unquestionably MB&F while the latter is a Moser signature.
The Moser Endeavor Cylindrical Tourbillon watch is inspired by the design of an MB&F watch called the Flying T, with a large bubble-shaped sapphire crystal that leaves room for a vertically inclined sapphire dial and a protruding tourbillon structure. Although the concept of the two watches is similar, some technical details are different and the tourbillon is even in a different place than the new Flying T watch. Moser represents something more than just a combination of ready-to-use elements. employment. existing elements and designs.
MB&F’s LM101 watch, on the other hand, places the movement’s balance wheel (its regulating mechanism) above the dial, supported by two chiming bridges. Here, the dial not only incorporates Moser’s fumé (fumé) style, but also the brand’s minimalist approach: without any indexes, it might be a slight challenge to read the time on the small sub-dial that indicates hours and minutes.
Both watches are available in a range of dial colors, each limited to 15 pieces, or 135 units in total between the two models. The H. Moser Endeavor Cylindrical Tourbillon is priced at $79,000 and the MB&F LM101 is priced at $52,000
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